This year marks the 20th anniversary of the premiere of “Sideways,” the cult classic that made Merlot bashing a pastime among wine drinkers. The movie gave rise to the so-called “Sideways effect,” propelling production of California Pinot Noir while generating a measurable decline in Merlot sales of about 2% from January 2005 to January 2008. Despite Sideways’ character assassination of Merlot, Santa Rosa’s St Francis Winery & Vineyards remained loyal to the defamed grape. After the film was released in 2004, the winery continued to produce more than 10,000 cases of the varietal each year. The winery’s perseverance paid off. Its St. Francis, 2021 Sonoma Valley Reserve Merlot ($50) is our Wine of the Week winner.
This full-bodied Merlot with its seamless texture is striking. It has aromas and flavors of black plum, boysenberry and anise. Winemaker Chris Louton said crafting a Merlot that has substance and depth begins in the vineyard. “Our Reserve Merlot sets itself apart from our other Merlots by its blend of Sonoma Mountain-grown fruit with Merlot from St. Francis’ Estate Behler Vineyard, located on the floor of Sonoma Valley,” Louton said. “For the 2021 vintage, I added a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon to enhance the depth of flavor.”
Excerpt Taken From: The Press Democrat
Author: Peg Melnik
