Wine Reviews

Well-marked by toasty oak, this white nonetheless features peach, yellow plum, apple tart and salty mineral accents. Complex and viscous, with terrific harmony and length. Juicy finish.

The 2023 Pouilly-Fuissé Tête de Cru Clos des Prouges comes from a vineyard planted with 76-year-old vines and was raised with 25% new oak. It opens with a blossom-tinged nose, followed by ripe and honeyed fruit, especially nectarine. On the palate, the wine is immediately round and voluminous, with a creamy texture that fills the mouth before narrowing along the mid-palate, tightened by the emergence of its underlying powdery throughline. The finish is long and persistent, leaving a flavorful hazelnut-tinged impression.

The 2025 Pouilly-Fuissé Clos des Prouges was the only single vineyard picked after the rains started, partly due to the size of the vineyard, though it was too early for the rains to affect the fruit. This has a lovely nose with pretty lemon balm and lime aromas, well defined and focused. The palate is bright and focused, a little oaky at the moment, but that will be assimilated by the time of bottling. Attractive prickle of spice on the aftertaste — good potential.

The 2024 Pouilly-Fuissé Clos des Prouges, which naturally suffers millerandage, underwent a delayed picking to enhance the ripeness. That concentration comes through on the nose with pure Clementine and Japanese yuzu scents, with seamlessly integrated oak just binding everything together but allowing the terroir to show. The palate is tensile on the entry with lime, lemon zest, hints of stem ginger and a touch of minéralité derived from the marl soils on the precise and long finish. This is very impressive.

The 2023 Pouilly-Fuissé Clos des Prouges, which lies on marl soil, has a tensile and delineated nose, crushed stone permeating the yellow fruit, fresher than the Clos de Jeanne cuvée. The palate is edgy on the entry, a little creamy in texture yet complex, with palpable mineralité on the saline finish. The old vines, around 75 years of age, really impart complexity to this vintage.