Wine Reviews

A bold, firm white, with vivacious pink grapefruit zest and racy acidity enlivening star fruit, Gala apple, spun honey and minerally smoke and flint. Tightly meshed and mouthwatering, with a long, well-spiced finish.

A striking Riesling that balances precision with the flair of artistic freedom. There is a flinty note which quickly gives way to a vibrant core of white raspberry, citrus zest, savory minerality.

It has a slightly reductive smokiness and a touch of tart red apple skin. The palate is immediately juicy, salty and full of crunch and verve. It’s thrilling, bright, hair-raising and full of a beautiful, sunny, vivid, lively energy, like the most delicious jolt of freshness.

The 2022 Riesling Brand Grand Cru is from a granite site. The nose crackles with citrus zest. The palate is so clear, juicy and brilliant. This comes together with luminosity, lightness and ease. Grapefruit zest appears on the finish, revealing more of its aromatic layers. Concentration, tingling freshness, zesty phenolics and a distinct light-footedness make this supremely balanced and juicy.

The 2021 Riesling Brand Grand Cru is from granitic soils with much magnesium and potassium in the soil. It is harvested in five different lieu-dits, with Steinglitz the most important, followed by Weingarten and Schneckelsburg. The vines are 50-55 years old. Gentle flinty reduction allows lime zest to peek through. The palate adds tropical allure with slight notions of mango and little fillips of pineapple. The freshness is beautifully balanced and contoured with some pithy bitterness. Structured, trenchant and utterly mouth-watering with just about 4g/L of residual sweetness.