This colheita specialist is now in the hands of the Fladgate Partnership; under the leadership of Adrian Bridge, the partners have focused increasing attention on aged Tawnies and the treasures hidden in cellars like Krohn’s. While 1982 was trumpeted as a great year in many wine regions, by now, most of those wines are past their prime. Not this one. In fact, the particular way in which it merges textures and flavors is unique to the Douro: It has a gentle touch of stone, a quiet floral riff, a serious richness that defies whatever austere tendencies the mineral structure might suggest. “A world-class wine,” one taster noted, while others were taken by its completeness and the beautiful buzz of its riches.