Wine Reviews

Apple juice and white pepper offer an unexpected complement to more typical lychee aromas. While sweet and pear-like upfront, this wine has more savory notes than expected, with spring onion, Alpine cheese and a hint of petrol. The body is light, the acidity exactly as cleansing as it should be. It all hangs together in a light, easy-drinking amalgam. A little time in the cellar would probably enhance this wine’s complexity.

Very smoky and flinty with lychee, papaya and star-fruit aromas. A very concentrated and super-silky gewurz that has none of the massiveness or bitterness towards which the wines of this grape so easily tend. And that in spite of more than 15% alcohol! Indeed, the freshness on the finish reminds me of the best 2016 gewurz, though here it is married to greater ripeness. Wonderfully silky, long finish. Fermented until November 2021. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

This is a massively concentrated and enormously structured wine with so much smoke and spice, but there’s also so much rose aroma that it comes off as charming rather than imposing. And the giant freshness at the finish pulls you back for more of this astonishing gewurz. Beautifully integrated touch of sweetness. From biodynamically grown grapes.

Ripe and silky, this rich white offers flavors of honeyed apricot, dried papaya and verbena, with a subtle thread of smoke and stone. Verging on off-dry, this relies on soft citrus peel acidity and a zesty edge of grated ginger and blood orange granita to provide definition and texture, enlivening the lingering finish.

This shows perfect equilibrium, and justifies the reputation of Rangen as a top Grand Cru. It’s lush and opulent on the nose, with aromas of stone fruits, yet shows rigour. On the palate it’s very concentrated and fulll-bodied. The finish is silky, elegant and very long.