Wine Reviews

Superrich and concentrated yet never heavy, with a mouthwatering feel, this offers up wave after wave of singed orange peel, honeycomb, peach and blanched almond, plus a hint of petrol. Bitter herbs and thyme oil coat the finish, which is rich, seamless and beautifully textured. Mouthwatering finish. Salty and oily in the best way. Drink now through 2035.

Intensely savory and concentrated, with a salty, leesy character to notes of green melon and roasted agave. Hints of warm baking spices and honey add warmth to the ripe core, but this is mostly about mineral-driven power and saline depth. Chalky stone layers draw out the finish, which shows a firm structure and is still unwinding.

The 2024 Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain Grand Cru comes from the volcanic greywacke of this steep site. Wet walnut skin notions on the nose point to reduction. Underneath is crushed citrus foliage with an alluring aroma. The palate is purity, serenity, finesse and flow. The zestiness makes the mouth water while the purity and stoniness are disarming. Zestiness defines the finish of this super-fine, super-elegant expression of Rangen that is utterly firm but filigree. Wonderful. This needs time. (Bone-dry)

Gigantic concentration, elegance and finesse. The smokiness floats like a cloud over the deep dark waters of this unique wine. The spiciness is so delicate and fascinating, and although the texture is super silky…

Apple, quince and smoke with grilled nut and nutmeg; dry, salty, focused and deep. Mineral tension carries through the core, finishing long and characterful. Ready now.