Wine Reviews

An aroma of dill and chives is immediate, powerful and mouthwatering. Vivid fruit—a mix of tangy nectarine and grapefruit—comes through on the palate, which has a pleasant round weight to it. Schist minerality and pulsating acidity come through to cleanse the palate, and the finish leaves you with a cooling hint of eucalyptus. This can stand up to a dish with a bit of heat; think leche de tigre ceviche.

The 2021 Muscat Goldert Grand Cru comes from a mix of limestone and clay with deep topsoil, a site famed for Muscat. A gentle orange zest and orange blossom fragrance is clouded with some reductive smoke. The palate is smooth, rich and almost viscous. Still, the wine is dry, with a lovely lemon notion of acidity, softened by malolactic fermentation, which also took some of the varietal headiness. This results in a gently aromatic, fine, light bone-dry wine that will evolve beautifully.

The extrovert fruit on the nose with plenty of exotic floral notes makes you think this is going to be a sweet late-harvest wine, but it’s bone-dry with a vibrant pink grapefruit character. Super-elegant balance with great precision at the long, very delicate finish

This vision of pinot gris perfection creeps up to you on tip toe. Wonderful quince fruit and smokiness on the rather closed nose, followed by the impeccably balanced and delightful front palate. Then the hammer falls and the overwhelming crushed rock minerality hits you like a landslide that sweeps everything away. And somehow all this feels as weightless as a cloud!

Pure, fresh and precise on the tonic nose, with candied lemon and grapefruit aromas as well as some orange notes, the 2020 Muscat Goldert is a rich and dense but vivacious, saline and finely tannic Muscat that was bottled with 12.8% stated alcohol. It’s very good, with an intense finish. Natural cork.