Wine Reviews

Salty and briny, with a densely packed core of ripe persimmon and zesty peach skin awash in a cooling rush of wet stone. There’s a honeyed edge on the full-bodied palate, filigreed with white tea and herbs. Shows real power and stretches way out. Drink now through 2033.

A full-bodied, mineral-rich style, with a lot of power behind its lemon rind and stone fruit notes, which are broad and mouthfilling. The foundation of flinty mineral keeps this firmly taut through the long finish. Everything is zipped up with grapefruit pithy acidity for a harmonious profile, with the subtlest hint of salted butter.

The 2024 Riesling Clos Windsbuhl hails from a secluded site on Triassic limestone. Slight flintiness on the nose leads to a palate that combines aromatic tangerine zest with tender but ripe pale peach. Everything about this is deeply cooling, deeply soothing, wonderfully heightened and so lithe, yet so concentrated and definite. This is superb and touching, the purity simply floors you. (Bone-dry)

The palate is a wonderful intersection of the juiciest, crunchiest apple and the smoothest lemon. All about this is long, cool, bright and sunny, with a wonderful depth of freshness and real serenity. This just flows and shines with purity. What an incredibly animating wine.

At once powerful and crystalline, this densely structured dry riesling is made for the long term. Extremely lemony and salty on the medium- to full-bodied palate, then so compact at the very long, driving finish, which is as pointed as a rapier. The last riesling harvested in this vintage, but with the lowest alcohol and the highest acidity. From biodynamically grown grapes.