Wine Reviews

Beautiful clarity with layers of roses, pink peppercorns, sandalwood and cherry stones, interlaced with hints of chocolate and walnuts. It’s medium-bodied, in line with the vintage, with sleek and tight-grained tannins. Refined Clos Vougeot.

The 2021 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru (Domaine Louis Jadot) has turned out very well, exhibiting aromas of sweet cherries, berries, petals and spices, framed by toasty new oak. Medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, it’s deep and muscular, with fine balance and a penetrating finish. This cuvée is now harvested in two picks, one week or so apart, instead of all in the same day.

The 2021 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a rather stoic nose, with backward, light red berry fruit laced with decaying leaves that gradually unfurl in the glass. The palate is medium bodied with pliant tannins, good density, dark berry fruit laced with orange rind and a pinch of white pepper. It misses the length and grace on the finish that a more benevolent season would bring. Fine.

A sleek black cherry- and blackberry-infused version, this is tightly coiled and unfurls slowly across the palate. Remains linear and bracing as this ends with mineral and spice notes. Shows superb balance and length.

Rich and gamey nose, of the kind that gets real Burgundy freaks very excited. Iron, smoke and earth in its soul. With aeration it develops wonderful, super-ripe sour-cherry fruit. Then comes the massive structure of the expansive yet fresh finish, the wine moving over your palate like a great ocean liner plowing through the waves of the North Atlantic. Here’s one with decades of aging potential. From organically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but best from 2030.