Wine Reviews

A fresh, clean, complex white, featuring briny mineral, lime blossom, acacia, peach and baking spice aromas and flavors. Mouthwatering and tense on the finish, where a salty element lingers. Best from 2028 through 2033.

The 2023 Pouilly-Fuissé Hors-Classe Tournant de Pouilly is a nobly powerful, concentrated wine that is defined by a powdery texture and a firm limestone backbone. Apple and pear lead the nose, accompanied by a subtle note of lime leaf and a touch of vanilla oak. The palate is tightly coiled and densely structured, its concentration countered with ripe acid and subtle bitter edges. There is considerable substance here but also the precision and structural reserve required for extended aging. It closes with authority and persistence, with the limestone character lingering through the finish.

The 2025 Pouilly-Fuissé Tournant de Pouilly 1er Cru includes the old vines picked before the rain and younger vines after the rain. Again, this is a little backward and tightly wound on the nose, opening with green apple, orange pith and light waxy scents. The palate is well balanced on the entry, very cohesive, with well-judged acidity (especially given the challenges of the growing season) and a detailed and quite persistent finish. This is a cuvée that overcomes the limitations of the season.

The 2024 Pouilly-Fuissé Tournant de Pouilly 1er Cru is the most backward on the nose at the moment despite aeration. You can feel that there is intensity here, but it has clammed up at the moment. The palate is well balanced with very impressive weight countered by the silver thread of acidity. Lightly spiced with veins of lemongrass, it is beautifully controlled and linear towards the focused finish. Long-term, like the Ménétrières.

The 2024 Pouilly-Fuissé Tournant de Pouilly 1er Cru was one of the last vines to be picked due to its more northerly exposure. This has a flinty, smoky bouquet that is old-school Mâconnais. There is something uncompromising about the aromatics. The palate is vibrant with a citric entry, just a little oily in texture, linear with hints of lemongrass towards the finish that is like a coiled-up spring. You can already feel that this has a long road ahead.