Wine Reviews

This salty and earthy red shows real charm, with tugs of tar and hummus revealing modest notes of cherry and singed incense. A sanguine meatiness runs from beginning to end in this simmering, savory version, offering a tangy close, with menthol freshness chiming in at the end.

Full-bodied and with bright acidity, the wine is sappy with black-fruited flavors, toned and lifted by hints of white pepper and a touch of salt, especially noticeable on the finish. The tannins are sizable yet well-spaced, contributing to the wine’s considerable depth.

The 2022 Moulin-à-Vent Clos de Rochegrès has rich aromas of tart red and black cherries, spiced plums, white acacia blossoms and sweet cedar tones. On the medium to full-bodied palate, the cherry-fruited core intermingles with flavors of candied orange peel and figs.

The 2021 Moulin-à-Vent Clos de Rochegrès fared nicely, emitting fresh aromas of boysenberries, elderberries, lilac petals and cacao powder. The medium to full-bodied palate maintains a pleasant concentration of flavor with a core of brambly fruit yet remains lithe with bright acids.

The 2023 Moulin-à-Vent Clos de Rochegrès was born on the highest slopes of the appellation at 360 meters, and its magnificent violet color, intense and deep, already shows its concentration. The nose is extremely complex, skillfully built, and leaves one admiring the outstanding smoky scents of considerable style and an admirable quality of fruit, with a simple note of raspberry seed already a delight. The flesh is long, propped up, deep, full-bodied without hardness, and of a silkiness that recalls the greatest crus. This is a wine of inspiration, of temperament, of flesh and of length, whose present constitution will carry it across half a century without difficulty. A wine of immense complexity that leaves one dreaming and inevitably admiring, showing how much this place can be not merely considerable, but immense. Drink 2026-2076.