Wine Reviews

This svelte, meaty red has good depth, with a dense core of mulled cherry, black plum and anise draped in an earthy layer of tobacco leaf, lightly toasted cedar and charred garrigue.

The 2020 Moulin-à-Vent Clos de Rochegrès unwinds in the glass with scents of cherries, cassis, dark berries, sweet soil tones and spices. Medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it’s bright and seamless, with powdery tannins, lively acids and a saline finish. It’s less ethereal than the 2019 without being as muscular as the 2018, striking a nice balance.

A weighty and ripe wine, this gamay’s powerful black tannins are brimming with succulent dark cherry and lasting berry flavors. There’s a green note, like fennel, and some superripe edges of fresh and dried plums, a satisfying red to serve with squab grilled with fennel.

Glistening ruby. Oak-spiced cherry and dark berry preserves on the deeply perfumed nose, along with suggestions of mocha, licorice and candied flowers. Plush black and blue fruit flavors show very good clarity and become firmer and spicier through the midpalate. Rich, to be sure, but there’s energy here as well. Finishes extremely long and smoky, with building tannins and a lingering cherry cola note.

Shimmering violet. Pungent, mineral- and spice-accented cherry and cassis aromas pick up a smoky nuance and a hint of candied violet with air. Chewy and broad in the mouth, offering bitter cherry, dark berry and licorice flavors that show real depth as well as mineral lift. Gripping tannins frame a very long, smoky finish that echoes the floral and licorice notes.