Wine Reviews
Menthol, eucalyptus, iron and Mediterranean scrub notes mingle with blackberry, black currant and licorice flavors in this dense and firmly built red. With air, this turns supple and fluid, picking up sweet spice accents. Nonetheless, this tightens up on the finish, where the fruit, mineral and balsamic elements reign.
The Tenuta San Guido 2022 Bolgheri Sassicaia is very much defined by its strong tannic backbone, and tasting it now, a year after release, that impression remains unchanged. A perfumed, almost floral component lifts the bouquet, which stays elegantly vertical and sharp despite the wine’s power. This is a little tank of a wine, moving forward with muscle and intensity, a character memorably described by Tenuta San Guido general manager Carlo Paoli as “a kid with a drum kit,” an image that feels both fitting and true. The vintage saw lower yields, down 18%, due to severe fruit selection in a hot and dry growing season. The finish brings playful notes of mint and sweet grenadine, trailing off with surprising elegance.
The Tenuta San Guido 2020 Bolgheri Sassicaia needs extra time to open, gradually blossoming to reveal a pretty range of tonic, taut fruit tones. The wine initially shows a bright, malic character that contributes to its early sharpness, before shifting across the aromatic spectrum as it expands to reveal a more open or oxidative note, ultimately lending this vintage a sense of immediacy. The palate closes with good fruit weight and dry spice carried on the tannins. Reminiscent of the approachable 2015 vintage, this edition may not have the cellaring potential of 2016 or 2019.
The 2023 Sassicaia is elegant and supremely polished. Dark, ample and mysterious, the 2023 has much to offer once it opens up a bit. Blackberry, gravel, incense and new leather convey tons of somber intensity. Cabernet Sauvignon speaks quite loudly in the 2023, despite the wine’s midweight structure. Tenuta San Guido’s 2023 Sassicaia is one of the wines of the vintage, an accomplishment that is even more impressive given the challenges of the growing season. Early April frost lowered yields in Merlot and Cabernet Franc by about 20%. Rain during flowering and fruit set resulted in loose bunches, perhaps not ideal for production but decidedly positive for air circulation, essential in a year with elevated disease pressure. The 2023 saw as much as 20-25 days on the skins, with the oldest parcels getting the longest vatting times. Malolactic fermentations were intentionally delayed; about 60% of the lots were done in barrel. The 2023 spent five months in used barriques, then 21 months in a combination of 44% new, 40% once-used and 16% twice-used barrels. This is an impressive showing. I can’t wait to see how the 2023 ages.
Sassicaia 2023 will divide drinkers. While its quality is without question, it takes the idea of finesse and elegance to another level. In truth, this is more a reflection of the vintage conditions than a winemaking decision – but that’s what all great wineries aim to show in the glass, isn’t it? For some, this will be too light, too floral, and too far removed from ‘classic’ Bolgheri. For others, especially those who have been following this estate for several years, it’s a dream come true; a true-to-life model for the future of Italian reds. Me? I’m on the fence. It almost pales in comparison to the depth of fruit and chewy tannins of 2022, while the 2019 tasted alongside emphasises juiciness and silkiness. Supple, lifted and fragrant, 2023’s pure, crunchy bramble fruits, succulent, sapid mid-palate and prolonged freshness make you think differently…in a very good way. 87% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13% Cabernet Franc.
