Wine Reviews

Enticing floral and spice notes lead the way, but a pure beam of strawberry pâte de fruit and flavors of pastry cream, passion fruit coulis and salted Marcona almond expand on the satiny mousse, supported by finely meshed, mouthwatering acidity. Long on the finish, with an echo of chalky minerality.

A rush of red cherry fruit, kirsch, blood orange, cinnamon and rose petal soars out of the glass. Vertical structure and tons of energy are the signatures. I would be thrilled to own this.

The 2013 Comtes de Champagne Rosé is a wild, exotic wine that is going to need at least several years to come together. It is the sort of wine that only develops in bottle. Tasted from a trial disgorgement, the 2013 is super-impressive and very promising, but it’s also an infant.

This shows fragrant grapefruit, wild raspberry, iodine, honey, blood orange, salty bread and hazelnut aromas. It’s sleek, taut and superbly fresh on the palate. The red and orange citrus pinot noir character is singing at the moment, accompanied by salty and mineral nuances. Seamless and long, and taut at the end. 60% pinot noir and 40% chardonnay, all from grand cru sites.

This is a structured, focused yet delicate rosé Comtes. Almost rust-colored, with tons of grapefruit, crushed stones, blackcurrants and wild raspberries, alongside oyster shells and chalk. Very precise and fine, with seamless bubbles and a fresh, very long finish. 60% pinot noir (from Mailly, Verzenay and Ambonnay) and 40% chardonnay (Avize, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Oger), of which 16% red wine from Bouzy, all grand cru. Drink or hold.