Wine Reviews

A textbook blanc de blancs Champagne, with a rich waft of toasted hazelnut on the nose, plus a voluptuous range of poached apricot, quince paste, tangerine peel and brioche notes that expand on the finely detailed mousse. Focused by well-cut acidity, this is long and mouthwatering, with fragrant spice, mineral and floral accents on the finish.

Occupying a stylistic middle ground between the incisiveness of the 2013 and the fleshier textures of the 2012, Taittinger’s 2014 Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne—disgorged in July 2024 with a dosage of nine grams per liter—has turned out beautifully. It offers aromas of orange peel, peach, pear and brioche mingled with hazelnut and burnt buttered toast. On the palate, it is full-bodied, ample and textural, with a layered yet crisp core of fruit, considerable tension and a long, chalky finish. Harmonious and racy-fresh though it is, this is a marginally richer rendition than the 2013 tasted alongside it, yet both promise excellent longevity and will make for fascinating comparative tastings in the years to come.

Apricots, hazelnuts, lemons, white flowers, sliced almonds and hints of licorice on the nose. It’s creamy and layered, with soft, rounded bubbles that spread across the palate. Lovely balance of breadth, ripeness and freshness, with delicious wildflower honey and nut notes lingering.

The 2014 Champagne Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne pours a bright medium yellow hue and is very pretty, with a graceful floral perfume as well as notes of brioche and lemon curd. Full-bodied but more linear, the mousse is pillow-like, powdery, and perfumed and is followed by a long finish. I love where this is now. It’s quite complete and pretty already, and it’s a great bottle to drink while waiting on the 2012 and 2013. It’s less obvious as a vintage at this stage, but I do see it improving and developing into a very finessed wine. Drink 2025-2050.

A very compelling vintage for Taittinger, the 2013 Champagne Blanc De Blancs Comtes de Champagne is more structured and deeper compared to the 2014. It has an impeccable balance of decadence and tension. Full-bodied, with persistent focus, it has a mouthwatering finish with vibrant driving acidity and saltiness that accents the wine’s core of ripe stone fruit and citrus oil texture. This is going to be a great vintage to drink over the coming decades. Drink 2025-2050.