Wine Reviews
The 2018 Comtes de Champagne is a super-classic but very young Comtes. Lemon peel, crushed rocks, mint, slate and white pepper sizzle with notable tension. The energy, brightness and drive are classic Comtes markers. The 2018 is shaping up to be a jewel of a wine from a rare year marked by high yields and high ripeness. Superb. Dosage is 9 grams per liter. Disgorged: July 2025.
The 2017 Comtes de Champagne offers up hints of apricot, lemon confit, marzipan, tangerine peel and light tropical overtones. Soft and caressing in feel, the 2017 will likely drink well on release. Exotic passion fruit, baked apple tart and lovely tropical notes reappear on the close. Harvest started on August 18. Dosage is 9 g/L. Disgorged: July 2025.
The 2016 Comtes de Champagne is soft, open-knit and caressing, all of which give the impression of a Comtes that will be ready to drink with minimal cellaring. Spring frost and cold weather in June and July, with significant mildew pressure, lowered yields dramatically, so much so that Taittinger did not even open their press in the Aube. Although the 2016 doesn’t have the energy of the very best years, it offers tons of immediacy in a slightly smaller-scaled style. Citrus, floral and mineral overtones linger. Dosage is 9 grams per liter. Disgorged: July 2025.
The 2015 Comtes de Champagne is delicate, airy and wonderfully expressive. Lemon peel, white flowers, chalk, mint and slate are finely sculpted in the glass. Light on its feet and crystalline, the 2015 is terrific. There’s a touch of savoriness that is typical of the year, but it is not dominant or overpowering. At present, the 2015 shows a bit of tightness from its recent disgorgement, but that should not be an issue in time. Comtes is a real success in a year that was quite challenging. Dosage is 9 grams per liter. Disgorged: July 2025.
The 2014 Champagne Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne pours a bright medium yellow hue and is very pretty, with a graceful floral perfume as well as notes of brioche and lemon curd. Full-bodied but more linear, the mousse is pillow-like, powdery, and perfumed and is followed by a long finish. I love where this is now. It’s quite complete and pretty already, and it’s a great bottle to drink while waiting on the 2012 and 2013. It’s less obvious as a vintage at this stage, but I do see it improving and developing into a very finessed wine. Drink 2025-2050.
