Wine Reviews
The Marilyn Monroe of Champagne, with voluptuous notes of lemon meringue, poached apricot, black cherry, brioche and candied ginger trimmed nicely by sleek, mouthwatering acidity. A minerally underpinning of smoke and oyster shell pushes through to drive the finish. It’s hard to stop sipping this bright and harmonious bubbly.
Closed in style and character like the 2013, Taittinger’s 2014 Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne reveals aromas of ripe orchard fruit, confit citrus, dried flowers, herbs, spring blossoms and mirabelle mingled with customary autolytic notes. Full-bodied, seamless and enrobing, it has a delicate, elegant, fleshy core of fruit and racy acids, all enhanced by a saline, fresh and penetrating finish marked by finesse and elegance. This refined, chalky-inflected Comtes de Champagne has the potential to age gracefully over the next 30-40 years.
The 2013 Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne’s bouquet is compellingly fresh and minty, revealing aromas of white fruit—notably pear and apple—marzipan and sweet spices, as well as a light touch of citrus mingled with classy autolytic notes. On the palate, this is a structured, tensile and ethereal Champagne with high acidity—a sign of a classic vintage—animated by a mousse of striking finesse and delicacy. Although already enjoyable, it should develop well for several decades.
This beautiful Chardonnay from five top Grand Cru vineyards is textured with fruit that is still impressively perfumed. Its concentration has allowed it to remain perennially young. Although there are hints of toastiness, the Champagne has many more years of potential.
The 2014 Comtes de Champagne is a fine follow-up to the 2013. It shows the more linear personality of the year, with plenty of energy driving its overall feel. The fruit profile is on the riper side, but the wine has a decidedly lithe build that is quite attractive. Hints of yellow orchard fruit, chamomile, dried flowers and crushed rocks linger. This bottle was disgorged in July 2023, ahead of the commercial release. The 2014 is hugely promising at this early stage.
