Wine Reviews

The organic Animaetnea 2022 Etna Rosso Contrada Santo Spirito Animardente shows a lively mix of wild berry, cherry, blue flower and citrusy orange essence backed by grilled herb and crushed stone. The wine offers good complexity over a tight, medium-bodied texture with fine tannins. Fruit comes from 70-year-old alberello vines planted at 750 meters in elevation on stony soils over lava flows. Following 15 days of fermentation and maceration in stainless steel, the wine matured in large oak casks for 18 months. This is lovely to drink now.

Best Buy – Aromas of new leather and pink grapefruit gleam on the nose, above a backbone of salt and mixed wild herbs. Toasted nuts join more citrus and herbs to make a savory palate, but then sweet and tart gooseberry notes pop out. A very saline, mineral finish wraps up an incredibly satisfying, positively delightful wine.

The 2022 Nero d’Avola Saia opens with a confectionery bouquet of crushed blueberries, violet pastille and spiced oak. It’s round and pliant with depths of ripe red and black fruits that flow across a wave of vibrant acidity. Sour citrus enlivens the finale as the 2022 tapers off long, staining, but ultimately fresh.

The 2024 Grillo Olli is more savory than sweet as notes of nectarine blend with lime zest and almond custard. It spreads across the palate with mineral-enhanced orchard fruits and gingery spice. The 2024 lingers long, salty and intense.

Plum sauce combines with grilled herbs, olive and mocha as the 2023 Syrah Maharis evolves in the glass. This is sleek with savory red and black fruits energized by a core of juicy acidity. Firm and fresh tannins emerge through the close with a final note of tart blackberry.