Wine Reviews

There’s a hint of earthy reduction, but this is reminiscent of oyster brine and the seashore — like drinking the sea. Citronella and peach notes chime in, while the stony acidity pushes everything across the finish line. Decant now or age a few years. Best from 2028 through 2038.

A fresh, clean, complex white, featuring briny mineral, lime blossom, acacia, peach and baking spice aromas and flavors. Mouthwatering and tense on the finish, where a salty element lingers. Best from 2028 through 2033.

From a gently sloping site, the 2023 Pouilly-Fuissé Hors-Classe Les Ménétrières is a wine of considerable density yet one defined by balance. The nose opens with ripe apricot, vanilla and lime blossom beneath a top note of buttery reduction that should recede with air and time. Full-bodied, the palate is concentrated and silken, its weight drawn into line by tangy acidity. Despite its richness, the wine never feels heavy, instead maintaining an impressive sense of volume and composure. The finish is long and flavorful, marked by chestnut cream and a sea-salted edge. It’s a beautiful wine with clear aging potential.

The 2023 Pouilly-Fuissé Hors-Classe Tournant de Pouilly is a nobly powerful, concentrated wine that is defined by a powdery texture and a firm limestone backbone. Apple and pear lead the nose, accompanied by a subtle note of lime leaf and a touch of vanilla oak. The palate is tightly coiled and densely structured, its concentration countered with ripe acid and subtle bitter edges. There is considerable substance here but also the precision and structural reserve required for extended aging. It closes with authority and persistence, with the limestone character lingering through the finish.

The 2023 Pouilly-Fuissé Tête de Cru Clos des Prouges comes from a vineyard planted with 76-year-old vines and was raised with 25% new oak. It opens with a blossom-tinged nose, followed by ripe and honeyed fruit, especially nectarine. On the palate, the wine is immediately round and voluminous, with a creamy texture that fills the mouth before narrowing along the mid-palate, tightened by the emergence of its underlying powdery throughline. The finish is long and persistent, leaving a flavorful hazelnut-tinged impression.