This was a surprisingly seamless and tight rendition for such a difficult vintage. The 2014 Brolo Campofiorin Oro is a blend of 80% Corvina, 10% Rondinella and 10% Oseleta, and those two last grapes add broad richness and darkness to the wine. They also would explain the super tight nature of the fruit, which is surrounded by notes of smoke and tobacco. This is a great wine for a typical Veronese risotto al tastasal, a type of ground-sausage risotto.

— Monica Larner