This special parcel is planted on sand and clay atop bedrock. The presence of manganese in the soil brings out an inky color as well as a mineral profile in the wines. Moulin-à-Vent is recognized as the Beaujolais cru that most emulates Burgundian character, and here the Gamay grape shows heady notes of plum preserves and dried violets with a streak of fennel and fern. The result is chewy, deep, and brooding.

— Meridith May