Coming off the hot, dry 2017 growing season, Il Pino’s flavors of raspberry and blackberry feel ripe and slightly warmed, accented by notes of pipe tobacco and supported by firm, raspy tannins. The wine is a blend of cabernet franc with 30 percent merlot, 15 percent petit verdot and a touch of cabernet sauvignon, aged for one year in new and second-use French oak barriques. Despite its ripeness, it’s almost austerely dry, its angular structure filled in by notes of vanilla and warm spice.

— Stephanie Johnson