Wine Reviews

Smooth, clean and minerally, balanced and long.

Aromas of crisp orchard fruit, clear honey and white flowers, preface the 2019 Pouilly-Fuissé Autour de la Roche, a medium to full-bodied, bright and precise wine with a tightly wound core and a delicately saline finish. It was vinified in tank this year, and it has turned out nicely.

A slightly fresher nose is comprised by notes of citrus-tinged apple, pear and acacia blossom. Here too there is fine volume to the punchy and more obviously mineral-inflected flavors that conclude in a bitter lemon finale.

This is a selection of the domaine’s top parcels around the Roche de Vergisson, in the north of Pouilly-Fuissé. Half of the wine ferments in enameled tanks, half in used oak barrels, the two elements combining in a fresh chardonnay with green pear and creamy chamomile notes, light, layered and persistent.

Here too there is just enough wood to mention on the airy aromas of pear, citrus, apple, petrol and a hint of acacia. There is more volume to the succulent medium-bodied flavors that exude evident salinity to the lingering and more complex and agreeably bitter lemon-inflected finish.