Wine Reviews

A sleek, well-defined white highlighted by apricot, pineapple, mango and citrus flavors. Reveals a discreet touch of oak that adds a spice detail, yet overall this is racy and marked by a bracing structure. The finish is a bit pinched now, so give this some time.

This is also beautifully pure, airy and cool with its combination of markedly floral white orchard fruit aromas tinged with a variety of citrus elements. The suave and seductively textured medium-bodied flavors exude plenty of minerality.

The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Garenne (Duc de Magenta) has turned out very well, bursting with aromas of pear, toasted almonds, pastry cream, white flowers and Meyer lemon. Medium to full-bodied, elegantly fleshy and enveloping, with an ample core of succulent fruit, lively acids and a nicely defined, gently oak-inflected finish.

Deliciously fresh in all its facets, from the appleblossom scents to the luscious pear flavors and the lasting tingle of limestone acidity, this wine excited our panel (and this critic) like no other Puligny in the tasting. Daniel Osman of the Dream Away Lodge in Becket, Mass., described the clarity of its freshness as “iron and silk—like drinking cold water out of a mountain stream.” The wine gains its cool energy from the low yields of deeprooted old vines, some more than 80 years old. That energy seems to expand over the course of days, hosting scents of chamomile, the bacon fat and freshly cracked walnut tones of the youthful presence of oak, raw honey, Meyer lemon,and tangerine.

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Garenne (Duc de Magenta) opens in the glass with scents of honeyed pear, white flowers, baking spices and vanilla pod. Medium to full-bodied, rich and layered, it’s fleshy and concentrated, with lively acids and a toasty, oak-inflected finish.