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Carmenère |
This very old and now rare Bordeaux variety, thought to be a descendant of the Roman Vitis Biturica, was once widely planted throughout the Médoc and Graves, and considered to be nearly on equal footing with Cabernet Sauvignon.
With the advent of phylloxera in the latter 1800s, Bordeaux’s Carmenère vines were nearly eradicated, though some escaped as cuttings transported to Chile, where they were mistakenly planted as Merlot.
The variety’s susceptibility to coulure (failure of the flowers to develop into berries) and oidium (grey rot), combined with its low yield, late ripening, temperamental acidity and dislike of being grafted resulted in its never being resurrected in France.
Carmenère’s physical resemblance to Merlot is contradicted by its contrasting behavior in the vineyard. It develops green, weedy aspects in thin soils and badly tolerates rain from the end of winter through harvest, with the same result.
It also ripens later than Merlot, and its lower inherent acidity combined with a tendency to develop high sugar levels before the tannins are ripe make a balanced wine tricky to achieve. It was not until 1996 that producers in Chile definitively determined the difference between the two, and varietally labelled wines began to appear in 1998. The varietal name cannot be used in France.
Carmenère is marked by sweet, ripe black fruit and spice flavors supported by fat, plummy tannins and notes of grilled meat and coffee. Alone or blended, its personality is unique, with the result that other producing areas are following Chile in reviving this distinctive vine. Also grown in northern Italy’s Veneto and Lombardy regions, France and California. |
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Alternate Names: Grande Vidure, Carmenelle |
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See Also: Cabernet Franc Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec Merlot Petit Verdot |
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