Nebbiolo |
Thought to have originated in Piedmont in the seventh century, Nebbiolo seems specifically to be native to the area around Alba, between Milano and Torino. The name was first recorded in 1268 as “Nibiol,” from “nebbia,” or “fog” in reference to the mists which blanket Piedmont's hills on fall mornings; or to the dusty bloom which covers the berries at harvest.
Though it is one of the world’s greatest red vine varieties, Nebbiolo has barely migrated beyond Piedmont due to its extremely finicky microclimatic demands. The vine buds early, ripens late, and is highly susceptible to coulure, or the failure of the flowers to develop into berries, requiring shelter from wind and dry weather at both ends of the growing cycle. Paradoxically, it does not do well in warm climates but must occupy sun-drenched slopes in order to ripen.
Nebbiolo tolerates various soil types but prefers clay and limestone marl with mineral content. The presence of manganese, magnesium and iron will variously affect its personality. The vine is vigorous and of moderately low productivity, with deep, bottle green, notched pentagonal leaves and compact, winged, pyramidal bunches of medium-sized, deep purple, thin-skinned, dusky berries resistant to pests. The fruit is exceptionally high in acid, tannin and extract and not particularly fruity.
Genetically unstable, Nebbiolo exists in roughly forty different clones, the most important of which are the Lampia, Michet and Rosé, the first two of which are primary contributors of color and structure. Nebbiolo stands alone in wines under the Barolo, Barbaresco, Carema, Roero and Nebbiolo d’Alba designations, and dominates the blends of Gattinara, Ghemme, Bramaterra and, in Lombardy, Valtellina, Franciacorta Rossa and Sforzato.
Young Nebbiolo can be brutally tough, acidic and bruisingly tannic, though winemaking technique, for better or worse, can shape it to be easier to approach when young. As it matures, which in good vintages can be over decades, its reticent blackberry and wild cherry fruit emerges with complex notes of violets, rose petals, truffles and tar reflected in the sublime bouquet. Also sparsely grown in Australia, California, Chile, Argentina and Austria. |
|
|
Alternate Names: Spanna, Picotener, Chiavennasca, Pugnet |
|
|
|
